Some of Saudi Arabia’s most important ancient archaeological sites lie in the northwestern province of Al-Jouf, which is bordered on the south by the Nafud, one of the country’s two great deserts. Until recently, these sites have been inaccessible to visitors. This began to change in 1998, however, when the Kingdom—as most Saudis call their country—opened its doors to foreign tourists who come as part of a group. I was one of the lucky ones. According to Assyrian annals, King Sennacherib’s army penetrated into Al-Jouf in 688 B.C., attacking “Adumatu [present-day Domat Al-Jandal], the stronghold of the Arabs.” Around […]
