It’s a far cry from a Big Mac and fries, but not even the Last Supper has escaped the supersizing trend. According to a recent study published in the International Journal of Obesity, the tendency toward bigger food portions didn’t start with McDonald’s but is part of a “very long trend,” reflected in paintings of history’s most famous meal.
Brian Wansink, a professor of consumer behavior at Cornell, teamed up with his brother Craig Wansink, a professor of religious studies at Virginia Wesleyan College, to compare the sizes of the meal, platters and bread in 52 paintings of the Last Supper dating from 1000 to 2000 A.D. Using a computer, they compared the food to the size of the disciples’ heads to get a relative proportion. Their research showed a “clear trajectory” toward larger food depictions: Main courses grew by 69 percent, plates by 66 percent and bread by 23 percent. (For example, compare the seemingly sparse spread in Duccio di Buoninsegna’s early-14th-century painting above to the lavish feast in Daniele Crespi’s 1625 work below.)
As food became more widely available over the centuries, Brian Wansink believes, people began serving bigger portions on larger plates. “We think that as art imitates life, these changes have been reflected in paintings of [the Last Supper].” His brother Craig pointed out that these scenes often also represent the food culture of their times: Leonardo da Vinci’s supper includes a platter of eel, while Crespi’s shows large puffy rolls—hardly the kosher fare and unleavened bread one would expect to see at a first-century Passover meal.—D.D.R.
It’s a far cry from a Big Mac and fries, but not even the Last Supper has escaped the supersizing trend. According to a recent study published in the International Journal of Obesity, the tendency toward bigger food portions didn’t start with McDonald’s but is part of a “very long trend,” reflected in paintings of history’s most famous meal. Brian Wansink, a professor of consumer behavior at Cornell, teamed up with his brother Craig Wansink, a professor of religious studies at Virginia Wesleyan College, to compare the sizes of the meal, platters and bread in 52 paintings of the […]
You have already read your free article for this month. Please join the BAS Library or become an All Access member of BAS to gain full access to this article and so much more.