Site-Seeing: Beth Shean: A Tale of Two Sites

COURTESY NATHAN STEINMEYER

As I stepped out of the visitors’ center at Beth Shean, my eyes widened in shock at the picturesque Roman cardo stretching out before me, leading to the base of the site’s towering ancient mound in the distance. Having visited many of Israel’s impressive archaeological sites but never Beth Shean, all I could think was, “Why haven’t I been here before?” Located at the confluence of the Jordan and Jezreel Valleys, Beth Shean boasts an archaeological resume that is hard to match, even in a country where ancient sites pop out of the landscape every few miles.

Perhaps the best-preserved Roman city in Israel, Beth Shean (also known as Scythopolis) was one of the ten cities of the Decapolis, a group of semi-autonomous city-states in northern Transjordan and the Golan where Greek life, language, and learning flourished throughout the Roman period. In fact, it is one of only two Decapolis cities located in modern Israel, the other being the impressive hilltop site of Hippos-Sussita that overlooks the eastern shore of the Sea of Galilee.

Beth Shean’s history, however, stretches back well into the Bronze Age (third and second millennia BCE). Most notably, it was an important Egyptian administrative center in the 15th century BCE, when Egypt’s New Kingdom pharaohs held economic and military sway over much of the southern Levant, including the land of Canaan (see p. 46). Atop the nearly 300-foot-tall ancient mound (tell) that dominates the site and is fortunately accessible via a well maintained stair-case, visitors can glimpse the partially restored remains of an Egyptian temple and governor’s residence as well as inscribed reliefs that evince Egypt’s imperial presence in the region. Other sights on top of the tell include several buildings from the Iron Age (c. 1200–586 BCE), during the latter part of which the city was part of the Northern Kingdom of Israel. Beth Shean is even mentioned in the Bible as the place where the bodies of King Saul and his sons were hung up on the walls of the still-Canaanite city, following their deaths in battle (1 Samuel 31:10).

Before reaching the tell, however, visitors first pass through the remains of the later city which, beginning in the Hellenistic period (fourth–first centuries BCE), emerged in the relatively underdeveloped area at the foot of the mound. Upon entering the park, you are first met by the Roman theater. Although only one tier of the originally three-tiered structure is still intact, it remains one of the largest and most impressive Roman theaters in Israel. A little farther on, you can enter an expansive Byzantine-period bathhouse, which, like the rest of the Greco-Roman city, boasts impressive marble architecture, dedicatory inscriptions, and mosaics.

Visitors then come to the Roman cardo, a 500-foot-long colonnaded street—affectionately called Palladius Street—that stretches from the theater to the slopes of the tell. As you stroll up the cardo, on either side you see the remains of ancient shop stalls that once lined the street. On your left, you will notice a semicircular concourse dating to the Byzantine period, known as the Sigma. Be sure to poke your head in to see some of the great mosaics, including one that depicts the city’s patron goddess, Tyche. On the right, you can see the Byzantine agora, a large open area that was once the commercial heart of the city.

As you reach the end of the cardo, you can take one of two additional colonnaded streets that branch off around the base of the mound: Northern Street and Silvanus Street. On the corner of Palladius and Silvanus are the remains of a Roman temple dedicated to Dionysus, the Greek god of wine, as well as a second-century nymphaeum (a decorative public display fountain). Continuing along Silvanus Street are the remains of more storefronts, many of which were built in the early Islamic period but incorporated earlier Roman and Byzantine architectural elements.

Elsewhere in the park, you will find the remains of more temples, bathhouses, and even ancient public toilets. For those who are a little more adventurous, just beyond the park’s confines one can spot the city’s north gate, a Byzantine bridge, the Roman amphitheater, several ancient churches, and a Crusader-period fortress. And if you want an especially memorable experience, be sure to stick around after sunset (weather permitting) for “Beth Shean Nights,” an immersive sound and light display that brings you into the city’s ancient past, recreating buildings and historical events through a multi-sensory experience.

Beth Shean National Park is located on the outskirts of modern Beth Shean and is within easy walking distance from the town center. The site is about a two-hour drive north of Jerusalem and about a 45-minute drive from Nazareth. As Beth Shean is one of the largest archaeological parks in Israel, and home to one of the tallest ancient mounds in the country, be sure to pack a good pair of hiking shoes, a nice broad-brimmed hat, and extra water. The park’s visitors’ center is also fully stocked with snacks, drinks, and souvenirs, and there are several restaurants nearby as well.

As I stepped out of the visitors’ center at Beth Shean, my eyes widened in shock at the picturesque Roman cardo stretching out before me, leading to the base of the site’s towering ancient mound in the distance. Having visited many of Israel’s impressive archaeological sites but never Beth Shean, all I could think was, “Why haven’t I been here before?” Located at the confluence of the Jordan and Jezreel Valleys, Beth Shean boasts an archaeological resume that is hard to match, even in a country where ancient sites pop out of the landscape every few miles. Perhaps the best-preserved […]