Getting There: Ethiopian Air offers regular flights from New York and Washington, DC, via Rome, to the capital of Addis Ababa, as well as connecting flights from Addis to Axum. Call 800–445-2733 for reservations or visit their website Buses also run from Addis. The government-owned National Tour Operation (NTO) can make arrangements for trips to Axum. They have an office in the lobby of the Hilton Hotel in Addis Ababa, or call 251-15-92-74.

Where to Stay: The government-run Yeha hotel is probably the nicest place to stay in town; its rooms overlook the northern stelae field. Rooms run from $40 to $80 per night (telephone: 251–75-03–77). Other options include the Kaleb Hotel (251-75-02-22)—rooms with private baths cost about $10. The Africa Hotel (251-75-17-00) has rooms for about $5.

When to Go: December to March is the driest period; however, the scenery is greenest from late September to December.