Getting There: Conimbriga is located 100 miles northeast of Lisbon via good roads.

Where to Stay: Villas—including the spacious house with private swimming pool I stayed in near the charming village of Obidos—are available for rent. Other possibilities include the wonderful pousadas (inns) of Portugal—often castles, monasteries and manor houses converted into intimate hotels—including the Pousada do Castelo in Obidos (a 16th-century castle) and the Pousada Santa Cristina in Condeixa a Nova, a modern inn near the ruins. Reservations at these and 40 other pousadas can be made through Marketing Ahead (phone: 800–223-1356 or 212–686-9213).

Where to Dine: You can do no better than dine at any one of Portugal’s pousadas, each of which offers a sampling of regional specialties.