Getting There: Kourion is 6 miles west of Lemesos, along a good road. Plenty of parking space is available. The ruins of Kourion and the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates are open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., June through September, and from 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. the rest of the year. Admission is approximately $2 for Kourion and 75¢ for the sanctuary.

Where to Stay: The Cyprus Tourism Organization maintains, scattered across the island, 30 traditional village houses rented out to visitors by their owners. I stayed in the 200-year-old stone Papadopoulou House in the village of Vavla, about 25 miles from Lemesos. The house has a living room with fireplace, dining room, kitchen, bathroom and three bedrooms situated around an interior courtyard: a bargain at $70 a night. The Cyprus Tourism Organization (phone: 212–683-5280; fax: 212–683-5282) provides a booklet listing all Agrotourism properties.

Where to Dine: You’ll find countless tavernas. Especially good is Zanettos, an unpretentious restaurant favored by locals, located in the old section of the capital, Nicosia (telephone: 765501). A sampling of about 15 Cypriot and Greek mezedes (appetizers) for two along with Cypriot wine should cost about $30.